A simple and affordable option is to install a solar tube to bring in light.

Solar tubes are a skylight alternative and a great way to bring daylight into gloomy spaces.

Interested? Stick around to learn all about solar tubes, including reasons to get one, where to install them, overall cost, and the best brands to consider.

Solar tubes can quickly enhance your home’s interior, making it a brighter, safer, and happier place to be!

What Is A Solar Tube?

A solar tube is a device that transfers the daylight hitting your roof and moves it through the attic and into your home’s interior.

Solar tubes are often for sale under these names:

• Light tube
• Sun tunnel
• Tubular skylight
• Sun scopes
• Daylight or Sun pipes

How Does a Solar Tube Work?

Solar tubes have three main components; a clear cover on the roof, a flexible tube or rigid pipe, and a cover for the interior ceiling that resembles a standard light fixture.

The pipe has a metallic lining that acts almost like a mirror as it intensifies the light as it travels downward. Once daylight hits the roof, the light transfers into the home with no need for electricity.

Solar tubes should state the Light Transfer Efficiency (LTE) of the tubing, which measures how effective daylight transfers into the interior. A high LTE will provide a brighter and more consistent amount of lighting during all times of day and season of the year.

How Much Light Can Solar Tubes Bring In?

Solar tubes come in two standard sizes, a 10-inch and 14-inch pipe. The smaller tube delivers light similar to what three 100 watt light bulbs produce and can illuminate spaces up to 200 square feet.

Smaller tubes work well for hallways, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and offices.

The 14-inch tube expands the lighting to cover an area up to 300 square feet, which is enough to brighten dim rooms in just about any area of your home a solar tube can reach.

Because solar tubes work off the sun, the lighting they provide is only available during daylight hours. There is no on and off switch to control the unit, nor are they sold as an alternative to traditional electrical-run light fixtures.

Depending on your needs, this extra boost of light may be just what you need to avoid turning on lights during the day but will be of no help during the night. 

Reasons to Install a Solar Tube

Advantages of solar tubes include:

• Increases interior illumination with beautiful natural light
• Product costs less than a standard skylight
• Does not need electricity to operate
• Small footprint reduces solar heat loss and gain vs. skylights and windows
• Easier to install than a skylight
• Small size fits nicely between existing framing
• Flexible tubing can adjust to fit around attic obstacles
• Low-profile design blends in well with other ceiling light fixtures

There are areas in many homes that can benefit from more natural lighting, but space doesn’t allow for large skylights.

Solar tubes deliver a soft, diffused light. This can not only increase safety in poorly lit areas but also adds cheerfulness and makes your home feel more spacious.

Solar Tubes vs. Skylights

Still unsure if a solar tube is a better solution than a skylight? Let’s take a peek at the pros and cons of both.

Solar Tube Pros:

• Low cost
• Easier to install
• Energy efficient
• Reduces intense direct sunlight that can heat up the room
• Filters out harmful UV rays that cause fading

Skylight Pros:

• Brings in much more light
• Allows you to see the sky and stars
• A home upgrade that can increase value
• Many can open for extra ventilation

Solar Tube Cons:

• Brings in less light
• Can’t see the sky
• Does not open for ventilation
• The exterior dome is acrylic, not glass, which can crack under extreme cold or heat conditions

Skylight Cons:

• More area in the roofline which leaks can occur
• Direct sun into the home increases heat and cooling losses
• Much more expensive overall to buy and install
• Allows UV rays to penetrate, which can fade carpets and furniture

Is a solar tube right for my house?

The biggest factors for determining if solar tubes are right for your house are:

• Your style of roof
• The distance between your roofline and ceiling in the areas you wish to have extra light
• Any obstacles in your way in the attic, such as venting for an HVAC system

Solar tubes work best in rooms directly underneath the roof. In a home with a second story, you will not be able to install solar tubes to first-floor rooms without a lot of additional trouble and expense.

Not every space will be conducive for installing a solar tube, in which case you may have to consider a traditional light fixture instead.

Solar Tube Costs

Unfortunately, large-scale remodeling to install windows can be expensive. Even a single skylight fitting can run into thousands of dollars. 

Here is a cost breakdown between solar tubes and skylights, and how solar tubes can continue to save you money long-term.

Product

Solar tubes average between $200-$600

Skylights range anywhere from $500-$1500

Installation

Solar tubes average $200-$400 (installs in around 2 hours and is DIY friendly)

Skylights range between $400-$2000 (can take 1-2 days to install and requires expert carpentry skills )

Maintenance

With proper installation, solar tubes rarely leak, which means less cost for upkeep. Replacement or repairs are also faster to perform and much less expensive.

Skylights will need yearly maintenance checks to ensure caulking and seals are intact. Leaks are more common, which can entail substantial repair costs.

Cost savings

Solar tubes – Aside from the cost savings of purchase and installation vs. skylights, solar tubes reduce electricity bills as they require only the sun to operate. 

The unit dissipates heat as it travels down the tube, so the interior of your home stays cooler. Meanwhile, the small footprint also reduces heat loss during the winter.

Skylights allow the intense rays of the sun to heat your home’s interior as well as cause damage from UV rays that ruin furniture, drapes, and carpeting. During winter, the broad expanse of glass allows heat to escape. 

All-in-all, skylights cost more in energy loss and replacement of personal belongings damaged from UV rays as well as possible repair costs and the initial higher price tag for both product and installation.

Best Solar Tube Brands

The leaders in solar tube manufacturing are Velux and Solatube. Both offer reliable and efficient solar tube models, but each has its benefits.

Velux

Velux is known for its Sun Tunnel line that comes in both rigid and flexible tubing that makes installation much more straightforward. The brand offers builder-grade lines as well as commercial-grade. 

Sun Tunnel products come with a 20-year warranty, but Velux is known for the light quality it delivers, which is soft and less harsh on the eyes even on the brightest days.

On the downside, the reflectivity of Velux tubing is 98-percent, which is lower than Solatube.

Solatube

Solatube has been in business for nearly 40 years and is a master at product development with a 99.7-percent reflectivity in their tubing. 

Their experience means you can purchase products other companies can’t deliver. These include larger tubing sizes to increase lighting, venting for tubing airflow, integration of accessory lighting, and customization of fixture appearance.

On the downside, Solatube products come at a premium price and only offers a 10-year warranty on their products.

The post What Is a Solar Tube and Why Should I Get One? appeared first on Hausette.

Painting vinyl siding is an affordable solution if your budget is tight.

To help you through the painting process, follow the steps in this guide on how to paint vinyl siding. A great paint job will increase your home’s curb appeal and last for years!

Before You Start

Before you go running to the home improvement store for painting supplies, take some time to consider these following issues:

The siding appearance

Even newer vinyl siding can look bad if the installation isn’t proper, and no amount of paint will improve it. 

Inadequate nailing can make the siding look wavy or pull away from the underlayment. 

The stress on vinyl siding is high as fluctuating temperatures expand and contract the material. With proper installation, the siding moves freely during these changes and allows it to maintain a full life expectancy.

Going with siding replacement when you see signs of lousy quality is always better than painting.

The age of your siding

If your home’s siding is twenty years or older, it’s reaching the end of its lifespan. Painting the siding now may leave you with the additional cost of a full replacement within a few years.

Inspect the material for signs of holes, cracks, or damage that indicate the vinyl is past its prime. 

Unfortunately, if you ask a vinyl siding replacement company to inspect the state of your home, they may opt to embellish the actual condition to scare you and make a sale. Take any negative statements with a grain of salt or get a second opinion.

Moisture penetration

If you’re having moisture issues within your home, it could be that the vapor barrier underneath your vinyl siding has gaps or is non-existent.

 The way to remedy this issue is to remove the siding to put up a new vapor barrier, at which point it makes sense to install new siding in the color of your choice.

Warranty concerns

If your home’s vinyl siding came with a warranty, be aware that painting over the material will likely make it void. Depending on the age of the siding and your budget, this may or may not be a huge concern.

You may also find that a current warranty on your home’s siding is active. If the material is failing, you could get a full replacement under its terms.

Always take a good look at any warranty you may have on your home’s siding before deciding to paint, as it could save you thousands of dollars.

Cost of replacement vs. paint

Take advantage of the free estimate any legitimate home siding company will offer to get an idea of the cost of a total replacement.

Once you have this number, you can compare it to the cost of painting. Be aware that hiring out a paint job will also need it’s own estimate, whereas a DIY paint job will entail hours of difficult work.

Include in the cost of supplies any special ladders or scaffolding you may need to rent or purchase to reach high eaves or upper levels.

The average cost of painting a 2500-square-foot home is $4,000, whereas replacing the siding averages about $12,000.

The factors that determine a final vinyl siding cost, such as siding quality, installation difficulty, and accessories such as nails and trim work, can alter this price dramatically. An in-person quote will be much more concise.

Color

If you have your heart set on a color for your home that isn’t available in a vinyl siding, painting may be your only option.

The color options and textures of vinyl siding are much greater than they were a decade ago. However, the palette range is still fairly slim across all manufacturers. 

So as long as your siding is in good condition, painting is a viable option that can transform the look of your home.

Effect on home value

Making your home look fresh with new paint can increase the value.

Conversely, if you paint over siding that is old and cracking, it may do nothing to help value. Potential buyers or home appraisers will still see that the siding needs replacement. In contrast, new siding will attract buyers and can bring up to an 80-percent return on investment.

Time of year

Lastly, consider the time of year you plan to paint. Obviously, trying to paint during the winter or rainy season may be nearly impossible. 

Attempting to paint in the heat of summer or on windy days may also cause undue stress and poor paint adherence. 

Late spring and early fall are best to paint vinyl siding as the weather is more moderate. With better painting conditions, the process will be more successful overall. 

Expect it to take a week to paint an average size home, including trim, fascias, and soffits when conditions are ideal.

Supplies to Paint Vinyl Siding

Preparation is key when painting vinyl siding. Here’s a list of supplies you’ll need:

• Degreasing cleaner 
• Bonding primer 
• High-quality exterior acrylic paint made for vinyl 
• Paint sprayer or brushes and rollers
• Tape, rags, drop cloths, and bucket
• Ladders or scaffolding

The most critical supply you will need is the right type of exterior paint. Acrylic paint provides the best bond to vinyl, while a urethane-acrylic formula is another top choice.

Avoid latex or oil-base paints, as these will perform poorly and ruin all your hard work.

A paint sprayer will deliver the smoothest and fastest finish, as it covers under the siding laps evenly.

Step 1: Clean

Wash the surface of your siding using a degreasing cleaner. Rinse siding well with clean water and allow it to dry thoroughly. 

TIP: You may think using a power-washer without the cleaner is okay, but grime from traffic dust can leave a layer that will interfere with the paint bonding to the vinyl.

Step 2: Prep

Tape off and protect areas you don’t want the paint to attach, especially if you are using a paint sprayer for application. 

Windows, doors, brick, lights, sidewalks, and bushes are common areas to cover.

Spread out your trays, rollers, and brushes or paint sprayer and set up ladders and scaffolding securely.

Step 3: Prime

Apply one even coat of an exterior bonding primer made for use with vinyl. 

Some siding that has weathered at least one year but is not older than ten years may be fine with only a good cleaning. However, experts recommend you opt for the primer when time and budget allow.

Step 4: Paint

Apply your first topcoat as evenly as possible. Watch for drips, but also keep an eye out for flying insects or leaves that may stick into the paint before it dries.

Don’t ignore any debris stuck in the paint, as this is where the paint will bubble up and flake off in short order.

Once the first coat is thoroughly dried (allow a minimum of four hours), apply a second and final coat of paint.

The post How to Paint Vinyl Siding: Step by Step Guide appeared first on Hausette.

While smooth drywall can look sleek, it can also feel boring and show every imperfection. By adding texture, you can transform the look and feel of a room without much cost.

To make your home more exciting and show off your design personality, consider one of these seven types of drywall textures. Many of these techniques also work to hide surface flaws, so your space looks fresh and neat! Knowing the lingo for different drywall textures is also helpful when hiring a professional.

Here are the top drywall textures that add dimension and interest to any room of your home.

#1: Skip Trowel Texture

The skip trowel texture looks very much like an old stucco wall. It’s ideal for rooms where you want to have an old-world feel. 

To create this finish, you need to take a wide curved drywall knife and skim a thin coat of mud onto the drywall surface. Apply in broad, loose strokes starting at the top left or right and angling down to the opposite side.

Let the trowel “skip” across the surface, which leaves mud randomly on some spots while missing others.

Trowel over any prominent grooves, lumps, or dense areas to soften the surface. One well-done layer will add texture, but two layers look more authentic.

This finish will telescope any bumps on the surface instead of disguising them. However, it works fantastically to hide cracks or indentations. 

#2: Comb Texture

A comb texture can bring out the art-deco design enthusiast in anyone. This texturizing technique offers a vast array of options in terms of pattern, swirl size, flat lines, waves, and depth of texture.

To achieve this look, you must first find a combing tool or still brush to deliver the look you desire. Apply a liberal layer of mud onto the wall with a trowel and mist with water. Use the combing tool to create your pattern. 

Practice and experience are essential to perfect this texture and achieve an even pattern across an entire wall.

The extra mud thickness and deep grooves help hide most flaws.

#3: Rosebud Texture

The rosebud texture works well to create more visual interest without it becoming overwhelming. 

To create this look, thin drywall mud with water to avoid harsh edges that make the finish look dated. Use a 3/4-inch-nap roller to apply the mud to a section of the drywall.

Using a loose-bristle round brush, you push the brush into the mud and pull it straight out from the wall. The bristles will cling in a circular fashion, then pull back, leaving a “rosebud” pattern behind. 

It may take practice to get the consistency of the mud and the push and pull of the brush down pat for good results.

This texture works well to hide both high and low wall imperfections.

#4: Orange Peel Texture

For a more modern take on a stucco-feel wall, the orange peel texture is a popular choice for the deeper grooves in the dimpled finish that showcases paint colors.

Application entails using a sprayer to spread mud thinned to a batter-like consistency onto the wall. Then, using a one-inch nap roller, you need to lightly roll the wall to flatten out any high spots in the mud. Two coats achieve the best final look.

For minor flaws, this technique hides imperfections with ease. More substantial flaws may still show, especially those that push out from the surface.

#5: Crows Feet Texture

For those not afraid of texture, the crow’s feet pattern can update a room with its unusual design. 

To create this look, you need to apply slightly thinned mud to the drywall using a trowel. Take a special “crowfoot” brush (sold at paint stores) and push it into the surface at an upward angle then pull off. 

For a random pattern, turn the brush slightly to change the direction of the pattern after each imprint. For a deliberate design, leave a bit of space between each imprint.

The deep pattern is great for hiding flaws, but also catches dust, so keep that in mind.

#6: Swirl Texture

The swirl texture is a fun pattern that entails line after line of arches that can go in any direction you choose. The size of each swirl can be small or much more extensive, becoming nearly a circle.

To create this texture, you need a six to eight-inch wide thin brush with stiff bristles. Roll or trowel on a thin layer of mud to the drywall in sections. 

Hold the brush horizontally to the wall, push in, then twist the wrist to rotate the brush while keeping the inner bristles in the same location, forming an arch.

This finish is perfect for hiding old painting flaws like drips or small nail holes but does little to hide cracks or large lumps or divets.

#7: Leather Texture

For a very different but extremely cool drywall finish, the leather texture is the one to choose. This pattern is best for walls, as different lighting highlights the beauty.

To create this look, you will need to rip kraft paper into large sheets, crinkle it up tightly, then loosely flatten it back out. Trowel a 1/8-inch thick layer of mud onto the drywall, then take the crinkled kraft paper and push it into the surface. 

Before pulling the paper from the mud, gently rub the back of the paper with your hand. This will force the rougher edges deeper into the mud to enhance the texture. Remove and repeat, using a fresh sheet of paper each time.

This technique is very practical because it can hide nearly any type of flaw.

The post 7 Types of Drywall Textures for Any Room appeared first on Hausette.

Painting on fresh plaster walls can be tricky, so knowing the proper technique can mean the difference between success and failure. 

Do it the right the first time by following this step-by-step guide. We’ll explain what to do before you start, and then the exact steps on how to paint on new plaster and have it look amazing!

Before You Start

CAUTION! – Never attempt to paint over new plaster before it has fully dried. 

There are various ways to plaster walls, including plasterboard or backing plaster, which take different amounts of time to dry.

Plasterboard dries faster, usually within 3-4 days, while backing plaster on walls or ceilings takes anywhere from 5-7 days.

Experts suggest always erring on the side of caution when dealing with plaster surfaces, opting to wait seven to ten days for thorough dry time.

Another indication a plastering job is ready for paint is the overall color. The entire surface needs to be uniform and light in color, with no dark patches that mean moisture is still lurking inside the plaster.

Once you are confident the plaster is completely dry, you’re ready to start painting.

Plaster Painting Supplies

• Bucket
• Plastic sheeting
• Paintbrush and roller
• Paint/roller tray
• Painters tape
• Rags
• Stir sticks
• Base or sealing paint (mist coat)
• Finish (topcoat) paint
• Water
• Ladder or stepstool

Now that everything is prepared, you can follow these steps to a flawless paint job.

Step 1: Cover and Prep

Spread out plastic sheeting over any floors and furniture you wish to protect from paint splatter. 

Use painters tape along the edges of doors, window framing, baseboards, and crown molding to keep them clean.

Set up a staging area over a section of plastic to hold your paint cans, mist coat, roller tray, brushes, and other accessories.

Have a ladder or step stool handy to reach the upper portions of walls or the ceiling that needs painting.

Step 2: Create a Mist Coat

The first step in painting fresh plaster is to seal the surface. Plaster is very porous and dry, which will suck up standard paint if you directly apply it. The result will be uneven color, patchiness, and eventual peeling paint.

Avoid those issues by creating a “mist coat” or sealant for the bare plaster so that the topcoat will adhere evenly and adequately for a long-lasting, smooth finish.

DIY Mist Coat Directions

If you want to lower your painting budget, a DIY mist coat is easy to make, even if it sounds complicated. The formula is just a mix of water-based paint and plain water that helps soak deep into the plaster and seal the surface.

The ratio should be four parts paint, to two parts water. Mix this in the bucket to allow for stirring space. 

Some paint brands are thicker than others, so adjust the ratio slightly to achieve a well-diluted, watery emulsion. Keep mixing until there is no separation between the water and paint.

Most homeowners choose to use the same paint they plan to finish coat with, but it is not necessary. It is smart to use a light color similar in shade to the final coat, so the finish appears more even.

Do not use a vinyl-base paint nor a PVA glue sealant as a base or mist coat, as both create a barrier that prevents the finish coat from adhering to the plaster. When the paint sits “on top” of this type of barrier, it will bubble, chip, and peel off in short order, which ends up wasting your time and money.

NOTE: You can purchase pre-mixed plaster mist coat emulsions in cans at local home improvement stores if you’d rather skip the DIY, and don’t mind spending the extra money.

Step 3: Apply Mist Coat

Roll or brush on the mist coat, moving carefully to avoid drips and splashes of the watery paint mixture.

Take your time with this step, since it’s crucial to pause often to roll out, rag off, or brush out areas where the mist coat runs or drips. An even application will provide the best seal and help the topcoats appear more smooth.

Stir the mist coat often to retain a good paint and water blend.

Expect the plaster to absorb the mist coat quickly, but don’t keep rolling over the same spot. Apply one even layer over the entire surface and allow it to air dry for 24 hours.

Don’t try to accelerate drying time by using fans or a dehumidifier. Both methods can cause hairline cracks in the plaster, which will be troublesome to hide later.

Step 4: Apply the First Finish Coat

Stir up your topcoat paint and apply an even layer over your plaster walls or ceilings. You can use a roller for fast coverage of large open areas and a brush for working around areas of detail.

You can also go with a paint sprayer (with proper protection of your household items) if you have lots of square footage to tackle.

Apply the paint in a W-shape pattern, making sure it spreads out in a thin, even layer before loading the roller or brush with more product. Let the first coat dry a minimum of six hours, but it’s best to wait a full 24 hours if you can spare the time.

How to Paint Exterior New Plaster

Sometimes new plaster is on the exterior of your home. Painting new exterior plaster is much less complicated as it requires no mist coat after the bare plaster is dry. 

Select high-quality exterior masonry paint in the color of your choice and roll or brush on a thin, even layer. Once the first coat dries, apply one more coat for additional durability.

Step 5: Apply the Final Topcoat

Even if the first finish coat of paint on your new plaster looks flawless, go ahead and apply a second coat.

Two coats of finish paint will increase the richness of the color, enhance the sheen, and protect the surface better from scratches and dings. Use the same W-shape motion while rolling or brushing and watch out for drips that can ruin the final look.

Let dry, remove any painters tape, stand back, and admire your work!

The post How to Paint on New Plaster: Step by Step Guide appeared first on Hausette.

Finishing off pressure-treated lumber can be tricky. If you don’t follow the correct steps before, during, and after painting, you may end up with a peeling, unsightly mess. You’ll also waste plenty of time and money.

All the critical information you need is right here in this step-by-step guide to painting pressure-treated wood. Finish off your project with the perfect color to enhance the look of your home!

Before You Start

Practice Patience!

The number one mistake people make when painting pressure-treated wood is that they don’t let the insect- and rot-resistant chemicals in the lumber dry out before applying paint.

The drying process can take weeks in dry conditions, but most areas also experience regular rainfall, which further delays the drying process. Painting damp wood means internal moisture will eventually work it’s way to the surface, which causes ruinous bubbling and peeling of the paint. 

TIP: The lumber is ready for paint when a dab of water soaks into the surface and doesn’t bead up.

Get Your Supplies Ready

These are the supplies necessary to paint pressure-treated wood:

• Dish soap and water
• Stiff brush
• Garden hose for rinsing
• Exterior primer made for pressure-treated wood
• Latex exterior paint
• Paint sprayer or roller
• Paintbrush and thin paint pads

Measure your project so you can purchase enough primer for one coat, and enough to apply two coats of the finish color.

Step 1: Wash and Dry

Make sure the lumber is free of dust and dirt by using a stiff brush and washing it down with soap and water. Rinse well with a hose and let the wood air dry. For older wood, a pressure washer can blast out debris deep in crevices and brighten up the surface.

Step 2: Apply Primer

After drying, apply an exterior wood primer made for pressure-treated lumber, which is specially formulated to bond with any residual chemicals in the wood. A good primer is vital for maximum paint adherence, so don’t skip this crucial step.

Use a brush, roller, or paint sprayer depending on what will work best for the size of the project you’re tackling. Apply one even coat across all the wood, trying to get down into any gaps.

Let the primer cure per manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP: To easily paint between decking or fence boards, bend a thin painting pad in half (fuzzy side out) and tape the bottom together. Hold onto the taped section, dip the upper part in primer or paint and run it between slats of wood. It paints both sides at once and covers much better than a paintbrush!

Step 3: Apply First Finish Coat

Using a roller, brush, or paint sprayer, apply one coat of the best quality exterior latex paint you can afford. Never use oil-based paint, as it will fight with the chemicals in the wood. 

Don’t glop on the paint trying to achieve full coverage in one try, keep it thin and even. Use the folded paint pad technique to reach into gaps.

Let dry thoroughly for several hours.

Step 4: Apply Final Finish Coat

Apply your final finish coat using the same method as the first. Let dry.

Step 5: Check for Touch-Ups

Once both coats are dry, walk around and inspect areas for missing paint or thin areas. These spots will allow water penetration that will begin the journey to peeling paint.

Fill in problematic areas with one or two more coats of paint, and don’t forget the primer if you find entirely bare wood.

Step 6: Maintain

A professional-grade paint job using primer and two layers of finish coat should last for three to five years. The best way to keep your painted pressure-treated wood looking sharp as long as possible is to stop issues before they get worse. 

Keep the surface free of dirt, mold, or mildew with a regular gentle wash with soap, a brush, and water. Avoid pressure-washing as it may lift off the paint.

If you should see peeling or thinning paint, immediately address the issue. Sand down peeling areas and recoat dry wood with primer and paint. Add another layer to thin areas where traffic patterns are wearing out the color.

The post How to Paint Pressure-Treated Wood: Step by Step Guide appeared first on Hausette.

The key here is preparation. Knowing the tile, the appropriate drill bits, how to create tension to avoid the drill bit slipping, and how to do the actual drilling, are important to know to prevent cracking. We will explore all of these topics in this handy step by step guide which caters all beginners. 

Step 1: Know Your Tiles and Substrate Materials

Starting to drill without knowing the kind of tile and the material beneath them is definitely a bad idea. You need different tools and techniques to cater to different materials.

Tiles

The main types of commonly used tiles are porcelain, ceramic, glass, and natural stone. Ceramic and porcelain tiles look pretty similar, as they are made of the same materials. However, porcelain tiles are fired at a higher temperature, which modifies their chemistry to make them more durable than ceramic ones.

People often find it confusing to tell the difference between them. See the Frequently Asked Questions on how to distinguish between a ceramic and porcelain tile.

Glass tiles are often used in bathrooms. The key for these is to use a drill bit that is harder than the glass itself.

Granite, marble, limestone, and travertine are a few examples of natural stone tiles. They are very durable and require a lot of effort to drill through. You can check various types of tiles to help you identify yours on this page from RealSimple.

Substrate Material

After drilling through the tile, you will reach the substrate, which will be made of a different material. Again, you need to make sure you have the appropriate drill for what comes in this next step.

You may reach concrete, stone, brick, wood, or cement board. Most external walls are made of bricks or concrete, while internal walls are often made of wood and drywall. Cement boards are usually found on bathroom walls.

Step 2: Find the Appropriate Drill Bit

You can use whichever electric drill you have at home. Using the right drill bit is the most essential element in successfully drilling through tiles without cracking them. Tiles are designed to withstand tough conditions. Therefore regular and masonry drill bits, which we commonly use to drill through wood or other soft materials, will not be appropriate.

Even if you are tempted to use a standard masonry bit that you may already have, resist the temptation and buy a tile-specific bit. They’re very cheap and will save you a lot of hassle. There are two main types of specialist drills appropriate for tiles. 

Carbide-tipped masonry drill bits are commonly used for tiles, as they are designed to break very hard surfaces. They are appropriate for drilling through ceramic (both glazed and unglazed) tiles. 

Diamond-tipped drill bits are even stronger, and they are more appropriate for drilling through must denser materials like porcelain, glass, or natural stone. They are more expensive; however, they do not burn out as quickly as other drill types. They also create a clean and smooth product.

When choosing a drill bit for tiles, remember that the newer, the better. An old drill bit may easily lead to tile damage. Save the old drill bits for less tough materials.

You may still need a regular masonry drill bit to continue when you have reached the wall. These are best for brick or concrete walls. A wood drill bit is appropriate if the substrate material is timber or of wooden origin. You can use a standard drill bit on cement boards.

Step 3: Mark and Prepare the Area

Keeping the drill bit steady when you start is tricky on those glossy or glazed tiles. The trick to stopping the drill bit from moving on the tile’s smooth surface is to create some friction using masking tape. The masking tape also helps reduce chipping that can happen while drilling. 

Measure where you want to drill and create an X with masking tape at that point. Then measure again and draw an X with a pen or pencil over the masking tape. An expert’s advice is that to prevent the drill from sliding at the start, you can use a large nail and very gently hammer it where you want to drill, above the tape. You only need to create a small sunken area where you can place the drill bit. A spring-loaded center punch also works perfectly to do the same thing. 

Some drills come with drill guides, which are accessories that increase the accuracy when drilling through glazed, smooth materials, such as tiles. These are attached to the wall, and you can then drill through them. They are very helpful, especially for beginners. 

Put a sheet down to protect your floor and to help you clean the area afterward. This is also the point when you would want to wear any protective equipment, such as latex grip gloves, earmuffs, a dust mask, and safety goggles. Make sure you are not wearing any loose clothes or accessories that can be caught in the drill. 

Step 4: Start Drilling

Now you have your drill in your hands ready to go. You may notice that the drill has several modes. Set it to the normal drill mode, avoiding the hammer drill mode while drilling tiles. The reason for this is that vibrations coming from the hammer drill mode may cause the tile to break or fall off, in case there is a void behind the tile or bad mortar mix.

Start by applying steady firm pressure. If you’ve done all the prep work above, and you drill slowly, there is no reason why you should have any cracks. It is tempting to increase pressure once you are drilling. Be patient, and do not apply too much pressure. Let the drill do the work for you.

Keep the speed low, especially if you’re a beginner. There are some charts online which have information regarding the speed recommended for different materials.

Keeping the Drill Bit Cool

A critical step is to keep the tip of the bit cool and lubricated while drilling. Carbide tipped drill bits stop working once they are overheated. An easy way to keep the bit cool is to keep a bowl of cold water by your side, in which you can insert the tip of the drill bit after drilling for around 4 to 5 seconds. Alternatively, you can use a wet sponge to cool down the drill bit.

If you are seriously thinking about more DIY projects, you can buy some fancy integrated bit cooling accessories or fresh cutting oil. They will also extend the tile of your drill bits.

Step 5: Once You Hit the Wall

Continue to drill slowly and stop once you hit the wall. Continuing to drill at high speed at this point may cause problems as you may damage the wall and the drill bit.

You may wish to change the drill bit to one appropriate for the wall composition. Usually, standard, multi-material drill bits work well for this part. However, if you only have the tile bit, you can normally continue to use it for the wall, provided you drill slowly and steadily. 

Bonus Tip: How to Safely Attach the Fixture

Now that you have successfully drilled through, you might think that the tile is safe. In fact, it is not, as many people make a common mistake when trying to attach the fixture.

You need to insert a plug into the newly opened hole. Always use a plug that matches the size of the hole you just made. Forcing a bigger plug, or one that has a slightly conical shape will create a lot of tension and may result in a crack in the tile.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I tell the difference between ceramic and porcelain tiles?

Porcelain tiles are stronger than ceramic ones. They have a smooth finish, while ceramic tiles have a slightly rough finish. Ceramic tiles are often glazed, and in that case, if you have a loose tile, just look at the other side of the tile, which is unglazed.

Porcelain tiles have a consistent color thought out all their body. In contrast, ceramic tiles have a different color: often white, tan, or red, underneath the glazed surface. Ceramic tiles are also easier to stain or chip than porcelain ones.

How do I drill glazed tiles?

Most ceramic tiles are coated with a thin layer of silica, which, when baked, turns into a thin glass-like coating. This shiny glaze makes the surface slippery and challenging to start drilling into.

Regardless of whether the tile is glazed or unglazed, you should still use the drill bit appropriate for the tile, i.e., diamond for porcelain and carbide for ceramic. Once the drill bit penetrates through the glazed coat, it will drill more rapidly through ceramic tiles, as their clay core is softer than the glaze’s silica.

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